The Designer Musical Chairs So Far – Part IIby Candice Chua
Edited on February 3, 2017: After 12 years, Riccardo Tisci makes his departure from Givenchy. That’s two questions marks added to this whole thing – where will he go and who will replace him?
Let’s see how far we’ve come since we were last here shall we? Rumours concerning Phoebe Philo leaving Celine have quietened, Anthony Vaccarello has revealed his first runway collection for Saint Laurent (complete with some killer logo shoes) and Raf Simons has officially sworn in as creative director at Calvin Klein. Karl Lagerfeld is also still holding down the fort at Chanel, fresh from the house’s Spring Couture ’17 show. As for the top spot at Dior, that’s been taken by Maria Grazia Chiuri, leaving Pierpaolo Piccioli to man Valentino as a solo act.
But that’s not all, kids! This is the designer musical chairs we’re talking about, and it hardly ever stops spinning for long. As one chapter closes, another opens. Do we laugh or do we cry?
The latest to join the fray is Clare Waight Keller, whose exit from Chloé was made official yesterday morning. Her upcoming collection in Paris will be her last. Keller will be succeeded by Natacha Ramsay-Levi, former right hand woman to Nicolas Ghesquiere at both Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga and quite the Instagrammer. (What will this mean for Louis Vuitton, then?)
Paris Fashion Week also sees the exit of Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud from Carven after just two years. The duo will be replaced by Serge Ruffieux – love the name, man – who was previously co-artistic director at Dior. To get a feel of how the new Carven will be under Ruffieux, Dior’s Resort 2017 collection is a good place to start.
Meanwhile in New York, DKNY bid farewell to Public School’s Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osbourne, who took the helm after Donna Karan stepped down in 2015. Following the exit of Peter Copping, Oscar de la Renta finally found its creative directors in Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia. Both were formerly at Carolina Herrera and have their own brand Monse.
Still with us? We’re almost done. Almost. Perhaps, the biggest shake-up in Milan goes to Consuelo Castiglioni of Marni. Seeing as she founded the brand, her departure is a bittersweet one. With her killer Spring ’17 collection being her swan song – and such a good one at that – the Italian is ready to hand over the reins to Francesco Risso, formerly at Prada.
Peter Dundas has entered the fashion flurry once again with his departure from Roberto Cavalli after just one and a half years. He was formerly at Emilio Pucci. Like DKNY, a replacement has not been found.
Finally, we arrive at Ferragamo. Massimiliano Giornetti, who stepped down after 16 years at the brand, has been replaced by not one, not two but three designers: Guillaume Meilland at menswear, Fulvio Rigoni at womenswear and Paul Andrew for shoes. Meilland was previously at Louis Vuitton and Lanvin.
Phew. That’s it! For now at least. Knowing how things typically are, I feel like we’ll be back here again in another six months, give or take.