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At Max Mara’s Cruise 2020, Pop Culture Merges With Berlin’s Rich History

With touches of Bowie and Dietrich yet fully Max Mara, it was pristine, a presentation that bridged the divide between the young and the "old" in fashion.
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In the recent seasons, we’ve noticed a shift, a particularly positive one, where more mature women are finding themselves on the runways of fashion houses. This time for Max Mara, we were graced with the presence of Ute Lemper, a superbly revered actress and singer, who beautifully performed for guests the night before walking the Max Mara Resort 2020 show herself.

Held at the Neues Museum in Berlin, the house presented a collection that circled around the city’s rich culture with influences from David Bowie and actress Marlene Dietrich, both whose careers were greatly tied to the city. The connection between the collection and the source of inspiration won’t hit you like thunderbolts of lightning, but comes more like gentle, subtle waves.

Both Dietrich and Bowie challenged gender norms with their androgynous style. Dietrich’s suits became her signature, while Bowie’s beloved, personal brand of polished flamboyance often turned to texture and patterns. With that essence, Max Mara created peacock-like fabrics, shoulders embellished with little flowers almost reminiscent of porcelain, and metallic elements in every detail.

Without a doubt, tailored numbers came down the runway, and with Max Mara’s signature coats, no less. There were also pleated skirts in grey and white pinstripe, dresses that draped like a silk scarf, and turtlenecks so sheer they gave your skin a sheen. The metallic references were everywhere: suits that looked like brushed silver, champagne gold pants and hammered metal jewellery, a nod to the museum’s treasures.

Max Mara will always be a symbol of sophistication and class, never failing to exceed the boundaries of age, bridging the gap between young and “old” fashion. The show was a celebration of culture and history, coming together as one.

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