The Milan Fashion Week Digest – Episode 3
From the brand new Marni under Francesco Risso to Fendi's glorious thigh-high boots, these are the collections that topped our charts in Milan.| March 7, 2017
Welcome to fashion week, otherwise known as the most happiest yet painful yet inspiring yet hectic time of the year on the fashion calendar. Meals are skipped in favour of runway shows, minivans become changing rooms and offices, everyone learns a new styling tip or two from the streets and pencil thin heels are worn despite the thunderstorms and cobbled streets. We’re almost done with Paris, which means we finally have the time to sit down and review our favourites of the shows and collections we’ve seen in the last weeks. A little late than usual, but better late than never we always say. Ready? Let’s get started on Milan. Tell us what your favourite collections are in the comments below!
Rarely are we that blown away by simplicity, but Jil Sander whacked that midpoint between minimalism and statement right out of the park. Suits were cut on the boxy, recalling the late ’80s and early ’90s, while lurex knits gave the collection that adequate touch of glitzy show factor. The puff jacket-parka-blazer hybrids looked as functional as they were street cool. Finally, there was that masterful use of red, a shoo in for colour of the season. We detected a sense of pride in Rodolfo Paglialunga when he took his bow, as though he himself was aware of the job well done – and it was. Judging from the enthusiastic applause that followed, we’re not the only ones who thought the same.
This may be Fendi’s most “street” looking collection yet and it is looking good on the brand. Still, you won’t find any hoodies or sweatpants of any kind here. This is Fendi we’re talking about, polish and luxe is the name of the game. In their place, waistbands marked with Roman numerals, see-through things over seriously hot bodysuits, checked trousers cinched at the ankles, light-as-a-feather ruffled dresses and gloriously sexy thigh-high boots. Excuse us while we wipe our drool off the floor. See more details from the collection here.
DIESEL BLACK GOLD
The show space – a massive warehouse with carefully arranged spotlights and scaffolding – was a strategic choice that paid off. Backed by pulsating music that quite literally shook the ground, Diesel Black Gold’s girl this season was a kind of polished grunge. Looks were immaculately styled yet simultaneously devil-may-care (read: street style ready) with most if not all of the models making an excellent case for arm warmers over shirts, jackets, denim overalls, sweaters and, well, anything and everything else, really. The shearling jackets were a hundred percent cool, but even cooler when reinterpreted as a skirt. Shearling skirts? Sign us up for that, pronto.
Of all the shows that we attended in Milan, Prada was the only one that got a standing ovation. Was it the carefully decorated set of mod beds, lamps and collaged walls? The brilliant mix of music that borrowed drama from Beethoven? Or, perhaps the sheer effort of the incredible details on the sixties-meets-seventies-meets-classic-Prada threads? We’ve got no straight answer to give, so we’re going to take the easy road and say “all of the above”. We’ve got all the must-see details from the collection here.
We have so much love for everything that former creative director Consuelo Castiglioni touches, but we think Marni is going to do just fine under successor Francesco Risso. The Marni signature of utilising prints is still there, but a tad more psychedelic under Risso. The new girl is also a touch more eclectic and quirky with giant pastel fur coats, floppy seventies hats, mod dresses and unexpected pairings like patent feather boots and striped bralets over brocade shift dresses. Marni was great before, but a change is always exciting. If this is just the tip of the Risso-Marni iceberg, we cannot wait to see more.
Runway Images: Vogue.com