The Paris Fashion Week Digest – Episode 5
Sacai's mind-boggling hybrid coats, Miu Miu's pillowy leather jackets in all their gloss and glory, Loewe's lithe dresses that swing and swayed – these were the winners in the City of Lights.| March 9, 2018
We’ll always have Paris. Though taken completely out the context from which it was originally said, Ingrid Bergman’s famous line from Casablanca always seems to be the perfect phrase to utter when one lands on the hallowed, cobbled streets of the City of Lights, ready to embark on Paris Fashion Week. The last leg. We’ll always have Paris, because while you can’t wait to not live out of suitcases anymore, you can always count on Paris, its beauty and the beautiful collections that you will see to remind you why you’re even there in the first place.
Were designers aware of the big chill that was set to descend on Paris during the course of the week and a half? Granted that the season at hand was for the coming fall and winter, but the awareness seemed to be at an all time high: everyone from Loewe to Sacai to Miu Miu to Chanel let heavy duty coats and jackets in oversized proportions reign on the runway. Even things like pantsuits and skirt suits were thick. If the next fashion month is as cold as the one that passed, attendees will have plenty to cosy up in.
It’s always so hard to pick just five favourites from Paris, in part because there are so many, but also because Paris is just…Paris. It’s the big leagues. Where all stops are pulled. Still, the deed had to be done, and because we really couldn’t do five, we did six. Did your favourite make the cut?
Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s sophomore performance spoke of the seventies, equestrian sensibilities and – on our own conclusion – a futuristic imagining of a made-up medieval world. Colours were lovely, silhouettes were easy and varied, all rolled up into practical clothing that were certainly nowhere near boring. It was one of those collections that makes one excited about where the Parisian house is headed. See our full review and favourite moments here.
Under the skilful, clever hands of the young Jonathan Anderson, Loewe has seen excellent days, indeed. The Scot has this wonderful ability of giving so much in one collection and yet make everything look so coherent. We’re talking going from one extreme – t-shirt dresses with bras and fur hems and airy dresses made up of strips of different fabrics – to another – panelled leather dresses, shearling and bulky checked suits with giant leather pockets. With so many pieces that combined everyday with show factor with timelessness, could this be our favourite Loewe collection yet? See our full review and favourite moments here.
Will Chitose Abe and her brainchild ever not make out list? Doubtful. When it comes to hybrid clothing, Abe is untouchable. Just when you think she’s exhausted all possible amalgamations of clothing and silhouettes, Abe throws in twenty new ones. This season saw the Japanese designer melding puffer jackets with bombers and eighties style blazers, sweaters with chiffon dresses, denim jackets with blazers, trench coats with puffer jackets, sweaters with blazers – too many genius ideas. You’ll need a whole day to dissect it all. Yet, underneath all the coats, there still were everyday pieces in the shirts, pants, skirts and jeans. Abe, ever the breath of fresh air.
It is clear that creative director Sarah Burton had butterflies on her mind, but perhaps, the better word for it would be “metamorphosis”. There were blazers, coats and jackets – all very versatile pieces – that cocooned the body, including a wide-collared bomber jacket that seems to peel away from the shoulders. There were looks that mixed structure with fluidity, like when a butterfly slowly breaks out of its chrysalis. Then, finally, the creature emerges, manifesting in wing pattern prints, exaggerated yet soft shoulders, bows, tassels and trains that followed the McQueen girl as she walked.
No collection in Paris was more “fall” than that of Chanel. After rockets and waterfalls, Chanel turned to the season of fall and all its charm and mystery. There were beautiful coats that flattered, lace dresses that teased, and blazers and accessories that paid homage to the eighties. See our full review and favourite moments here.
Brigitte, is that you? No, it’s Elle Fanning. Brigitte, is that you? Ah no, it’s Georgia May Jagger. Miu Miu has always been Miuccia Prada’s avenue for something fun, quirkier, light-hearted and this season saw her taking the time machine back into the sixties, where hair was high and bouncy, skirts were short and curves – like Ms. Bardot’s – were celebrated. Midi dresses in checks and florals that hugged the skin abounded alongside top-heavy jackets, but the real winners of the show were the glossy, pillowy leather coats that looked precise in their exaggerated proportions.
What To Read Next: The Milan Fashion Week Digest – Episode 5, Ask A Londoner: The Very Best Collections At London Fashion Week and The Many Fashion Seasons And Fashion Weeks, Explained | Cover Image & Collages: Natalyn Chan, Images via Vogue.com