There Are So Many Styling Lessons To Learn From The Pre-Fall Collections
Fendi's logo-grammed newsboy caps. Chloe's varsity socks. Gucci's slouchy monogramed boots. Cannot. Stop. Looking. At. This. Gallery.| January 25, 2018
I’ve realised something about the pre-fall collections.
Before I discuss my revelation, a backgrounder: yes, there are such things are pre-fall collections. Typically unveiled a month before the fall and winter shows – in this case, Fall/Winter 2018 – pre-fall collections are in part preludes to the bigger spectacle – some even hinting at the coming shows – and in part a means to give us all something to wear as the weather transits from summer to fall.
Unlike the main calendar and occasionally the resort shows, very, very few brands take their pre-falls to the runway. Which means that when the world sees the pre-fall collections, it’s typically through images. Two-dimensional.
Perhaps this is why I find that the styling in the pre-fall look books are typically a tad more top-notch than they usually are. At shows, that focus is shared with movement and show factor. The pieces speak for themselves. When it is two-dimensional, that focus shifts more to things that stand out on paper: shapes, colour combinations, styling. For instance, some of my all-time favourite styling from Philo era Celine – eurgh, still not over it – are from her pre-fall collections.
When the styling’s good, the styling lessons overflow.
Fendi takes a stroll to the 1950s with full-skirted suits and matching cowboy boots – these, THESE! – and then later to the 1990s with printed t-shirts over pencil skirts and logo-grammed newsboy caps and tiny bags.
Tibi makes the case for extremely slouchy pants and matching your checked bag to your boots.
The logomania and matchy-matchy sitch is also happening at Gucci – that monogrammed trench coat with the slouchy boots, damn – topped off with New York Yankees caps emblazoned with Gucci at the side.
A special shoutout goes to Miu Miu, which shows us all the multitude of ways to wear a butterfly bow and to belt a duster coat.
At Prabal Gurung and 3.1 Phillip Lim, the mood is feminine at at times girly – cropped sweater-dress hybrids, sequinned dresses over flowing pants, bell-sleeved suits. Flowy suits are also apparent at Virgil Abloh’s Off-White, which also shows a new kind of denim-on-denim: white denim with red stripes, worn over – you guessed it – white denim with red stripes.
Finally, the new Chloe manned by Natacha Ramsay-Levi is young and vivacious with a slight seventies touch, altogether making a very good argument for capris worn with varsity socks and mid-calf boots.
Class is in session.
What To Read Next: How To Take Tulle From The Ballet Into The Weekday, It’s Quite Simple: The Best Shoes To Wear With A Pantsuit and Brand To Know: A.W.A.K.E. | Cover Collage: YOYOKULALA.com, Images via Vogue.com