Fashion Week Round-Up: Milan
Which shows owned #MFW?| May 1, 2016
The beauty about fashion week (or rather, month, if we’re getting down to specifics) is that it comes with a high that last for weeks and weeks until *BAM* what d’ya know, the next season is here! Now that we’ve officially recovered from the flurry and sent the last of our luggage laundry to the dry-cleaner’s, we’re finally taking time to digest the shows and talk about the ones that made more than an impression. So, buckle up – we’re throwing back to our top five collections from Milan.
The way we see it, Consuelo Castiglioni is something of a genius. She has that remarkable ability to strike a balance between maximalism and minimalism, and while her pieces are statement making – those balloon sleeves with the little cinch at the elbows, eurrrrgh – they have that potential to be investments that can easily be re-worn, over and over. It’s a kind of magic. We oohed at the silhouettes and aahed at the masterful print-on-print. So good was the collection that the first thing we said to each other post-show was, “OMG, it was so good?”
Every once in a while, Miuccia Prada gives us a collection that demands dramatic slow claps, the sort that slowly evolves into collective fist pumps into the air à la Judd Nelson in The Breakfast Club. Her latest was one such occasion. Military and sailor inspirations received the Prada treatment – corsets over Hawaiian shirts, utilitarian jackets over silky brocades, quilted parkas, weather-worn coats with argyle tights and satchels appended with five too many buckles. The layering was impeccable too, and coupled with the oversized charms that hung off every look, it was a show that gave so much to the eye.
If Ferragamo’s last collection was free-spirited, easy and girly, the latest is Spring 2.0. The colour blocking has gone up several notches and shapes have evolved from vertical stripes to squares, oversized houndstooth checks and zig-zags that bordered on the psychedelic. Last season was a girl who ran in the fields barefoot. This season is her elegant, cosmopolitan big sister who gets down to the biz. There’s power, but there’s also flair.
Dare we use the words “fun” and “cute” to describe a Fendi collection? Kendall Jenner & Co. weren’t smiling or jaunting down the runway as per the ushe, but there was liveliness in the clothing, particularly the colour. Waves and ruffles made for too-cute mini dresses and matching thigh-high boots that were paired with even cuter chubby fur jackets and bags that featured more waves and ruffles. Fendi has always been about making bold statements, which is why the intricately beaded mesh pieces that came at the end were such a pleasant surprise.
Five seasons on and we remain fascinated with whatever Alessandro Michele sends down the runway. His latest may be Gucci’s most dramatic yet, what with the ‘80s disco-meets-ballroom shapes, shockingly bold colours and liberal use of tulle, feathers and sequins. Shown alongside looks that were actually kind of street – take that spray painted denim jacket, for example – Michele has created a collection that covers his girl wherever she’s headed yet again. There’s just so much variety and the attention to detail was relentless. Our practical side loves the bombers and sweaters, but our inner disco queen wants the sequinned suits and ruffled gowns for shimmying. Oh, how can a girl choose!
Runway Images: Vogue.com