Fashion Week Round-Up: Paris
Even the bad weather couldn’t hold these top shows down. Daaaa sun will come out, tuhmurrow!| May 1, 2016
I don’t know about you, but Paris Fashion Week was one big, freaking marathon. Not only did we find ourselves literally sprinting to show locations, no thanks to the ridiculous weather and bad traffic (we did actually run down Champs-Élysées at one point), the nine-day stretch seemed to be our busiest ever. We’ve had a bit of a fashion detox since – re-runs of 30 Rock and Unbreakable Kimmy Schmidt were involved – and we’re finally ready to discuss our top five shows from Paris. Yay! Join us, s’il vous plait?
We can all agree on two things: Jonathan Anderson is one heck of a talent and his latest for Loewe may be his best one yet. Everything about it was correct – the layering, the proportions, the jewellery. Anderson experimented with materials too and that’s always fun to see, particularly for a formerly prim-and-proper house like Loewe. A dress was made entirely out of rubber bands and the cat-shaped ceramic pendants were heavy enough to double as paperweights. Best of all were the armour-like leather corsets spray-painted in gold. Anderson gave us drama without losing that brand of cool that has made his reign at Loewe so successful, and for that we say bra-vo.
Karl Lagerfeld basically trolled everyone this season. The theme was CHANEL! Emphasis fell on the things that the house is best known for, but supersized to make a point: plenty of tweeds and knits, stacks and stacks of pearls, quilted everything and flat top hats that the Mademoiselle would have loved. The showing-off of Chanel’s craftsmanship also became quite literal, such as in a bag that resembled a spool of thread. It’s quite smart, actually. The dreamy black and white dresses that closed the show were on the couture level, further proving that Lagerfeld/Chanel didn’t need an elaborate set to throw a good show. Just get the audience close enough and the clothes will do the rest.
We spent half of the show dealing with Sacai-induced goosebumps and the other half trying to decide which of the myriad of outerwear we liked best. The shearling wrap with leather elbow cuffs! No, the wine sweater with a built-in choker! Chitose Abe’s incredible knack for creating Franken-clothing was put to serious use this season. Puffer jackets with motorcycle collars, bombers laced with fur, velvet sweaters with military epaulettes and billowy poet sleeves – we had fun dissecting the looks despite the melancholic vibe of the show. Topped with the very on-trend freely swinging straps, we think it’s safe to say that our wallets are no longer, well, safe.
Nicolas Ghesquiere continues his romantic futurist streak, but there heightened sportswear influence made his latest even more wearable than the last. The line-up gave us plenty of styling ideas too. A greater sense of structure was evident, but that was contrasted with fluidity from the surprisingly feminine slips. The patent pants, beaded monogram clutches, slips and boob jackets – which were reminiscent of Ghesquiere’s Balenciaga days – had us silently nodding with approval throughout. Yes, yes, yes and yes.
More and more, designers are realising the importance of providing variety in a collection to cater to a wider clientele. Miuccia Prada did just that for fall, cleverly mixing different elements that still ultimately formed one coherent collection (she did the same for Prada). There were parkas and bombers for the street crowd, crisp shirts for the uptown set, evening wear for the red carpet, frilly knits and tapestries for the vintage-obsessed girly girl and extra doses of denim for everyone. So, so clever. It’s hard to fault a collection that gives so much without looking like a complete mess. And the iron-on patches over the grandma coats? Noice.
Runway images: Vogue.com