The Paris Fashion Week Digest
Now that fashion week is finally over, it is time to take stock and see who ruled the City of Lights this season.| October 10, 2016
Wow, was that a marathon or what? Contrary to previous seasons, this current one saw us travelling to not one, not two, but THREE cities in the span of a month and a half. We met Michael Kors in New York, fell in love with Fendi’s new shoes and joined the world in gasping over Chanel’s robot model. It is no wonder we preferred the comfort of boots and flats over sandals and stilettos (though Paris did change that a little). With fashion month finally done and out, we are finally ready to take stock and round up the collections that made us oooh, ahhh and possibly shed a lone, happy tear. When it comes to fashion, we’re willing drama queens. Onward!
Where last season was all about the off-shoulder, this season sees Demna Gvasalia putting the focus back on top. Gone are the shoulder-grazing jackets and anoraks. In its place – coats and gillets with super-duper strong shoulders. Like, crowd-clearing-get-out-of-my-way-or-these-babies-will-poke-you strong. Brace yourselves, because a trend is coming. Gvasalia also plays around with colour without going overboard. Who knew purple, pink and orange could look this good? Perhaps the real scene-stealers – and possibly the best boots we’ve seen all week – were the silky, pointed shoes built into trousers and skintight leggings. Beggings? Shoeggings? We can’t decide which we love more – these, or the waist-high ones at Vetements.
Is there anything that Jonathan Anderson can’t do? Honestly! The wunderkind wins again with a collection centered on the Loewe girl by her seaside abode. Think slightly undone but very voluminous dresses “made from” vintage furniture tapestries and organic fabrics. This idea of coming undone manifests itself in corsets and petticoat-inspired pieces. I mean, what else would you wear whilst lounging in your chilly cottage by the sea? It is a little Austen and whole a lot of awesome. The vintage-inspired bags were so good, too. We already have our eyes on three. Where does Anderson get all these ideas and how does he magically make them all work together? Hoodoo voodoo? One can only wonder.
Six months ago, we came out of Sacai with goosebumps. This season, it was a loud “Oh my god, that was so good!” Chitose Abe proves yet again that she and her signature Franken-clothing are in her own genre. What can’t this little lady – who happens to be so sweet in person, by the way – mix to create a masterpiece? There’s a slight warrior-slash-Amazonian-princess feel this season, but were the pieces wearable? One hundred and one percent yes. Oversized pajama pin stripes over lace, tank tops fused with utilitarian cargos and shirts under shirts over lace – every look was basically five pieces in one. Talk about an investment.
It is time to switch it up and Nicolas Ghesquiere knows it. Inching just ever so slightly away from his futuristic aesthetic, the man sends down blazers sliced in more places than one, regalia-inspired jackets and pants and see-through dresses that covered just enough. The women that marched up and down Louis Vuitton’s Place Vendome boutique on the last day of #PFW were powerful, feminine and so, so sexy. Those finale dresses? Cersei Lannister just called – she wants to make an order.
Can you say “comeback”? Despite rumours of her exit from Celine, Phoebe Philo, a.k.a Queen of Minimalism forever, proves that she’s still got it. The styling from start to finish was truly, truly impeccable. While the looks with the destroyed blazers and deconstructed coats were the real crowd killers, Philo throws in more than a few surprises with billowy dresses of bright red, pastel blue and baby pink. Can we also talk about the bags for a moment? We’re pretty sure the waitlist for that giant flat leather tote – basically big enough to hold three days worth of clothes PLUS your laptop – has already begun.
Tell us – what was YOUR best collection of the season? For more coverage from Paris, click here. While you’re at it, check out our Milan Fashion Week coverage here. (Also, don’t forget to head over to our Facebook page here and like it so you don’t miss any updates.)