Dior Takes Us All To The Rodeo Where Powerful, Feminine Women Rule
Simultaneously dreamy and tough, not even the unexpected rainstorm could rain on Dior's equestrian-inspired parade. See moments from the Cruise 2019 show through our lens.| May 28, 2018
Outdoor shows are oftentimes the most thrilling and hair-raising. Dior’s last cruise show among the golden valleys of Calabasas is one such example. But, sometimes when you expose yourself to the elements, you also expose yourself to its whims. You can let it rain on your parade, or you can take lemons and make lemonade. At Dior, an unexpected rainstorm only made everything that much more magical. It was lemonade all the way.
The setting was Chantilly in France. As live rock music burst into the scene, sending ripples through the puddles that had begun to collect on the wooden floors, so did eight escaramuza, female rodeo riders who had flown in from Mexico for the Cruise 2019 show. These women represented something special. As they moved in swift synchrony, thundering across the damp sand, riding sidesaddle might we add, they were walking – or rather, riding – proof that femininity never has to be the antithesis of power and strength.
The escaramuza established the tone of the evening where equestrian references dominated, as did the adelitas, women who fought in the Mexican Revolution of 1910 to 1920. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s second cruise collection ultimately put forth a mix of dichotomous personas. Feminine. Boyish. Edgy. Sweet. Roughish. Wild. Elegant.
There were riding pantsuits and ankle-length skirt suits, paired with jockey hats and riding boots. Some looks saw bermuda shorts under coats, others double-breasted blazers, nipped flatteringly at the waist, worn over full, floating skirts. There was plenty of décolletage, too, culminating in extremely flattering square necklines. Toile de Jouy prints abounded, where a menagerie of serpents, tigers and lions frolicked on coats, jackets, sweaters and the fullest of skirts that seemed to float and hover like clouds.
The “strong but super feminine” sentiment manifested in many ways. Some more obvious, like a leather corset over a button-down shirt, tie and voluminous tiered skirt, others subtler, like the plethora of tea-length dresses paired with wide-brimmed hats, stiff utilitarian leather belts and boots. (Indeed, there was not a heel in sight.) Beautifully constructed and boasting incredible detail from the precise layers to embroidery, these couture-esque dresses were made for both twirling and running in. The Monsieur Christian Dior-type silhouettes were unmistakable, but there was an added grit and toughness to them.
As the models streamed out clockwise for the finale, unfazed by the downpour, the escaramuza kicked their heels and rode counter-clockwise beside them, bringing the spectacle to a stunning, rousing finish. What a show.
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