Kim Jones Fendi Debut Moves Haute Couture Along With the Times
Taking the timeworn tradition of haute couture into the present while still keeping the dream alive may seem like a tall order but its one that Kim Jones executes to perfection.| January 28, 2021
The expectations were monumental for Kim Jones’s debut at Fendi. He had large shoes to fill, to say the least. Taking over the mantle from the late Karl Lagerfeld, Jones had his work cut out for him. While he had previously dipped his toes into womenswear, Jones’s Fendi debut was his first-ever formal outing. And an haute couture show, no less.
In bookmarking a new era at the Roman maison, Jones dug into a personal place of interest – the Bloomsbury Set. To the unacquainted, the Bloomsbury Set was a collective of English writers, artists, and philosophers in the first half of the 20th century. Jones’s particularly looked to Virginia Woolf’s noteworthy novel Orlando for inspiration. The tale follows the trajectory of a poet who transitions from man to woman – a duality very much apparent in Jones’s lineup.
A case in point: hybrid gowns that were half evening dress and half tuxedo. Elsewhere, tailored suits framed by floor-sweeping capes were further juxtapositions of masculine and feminine codes. In the same vein, Jones sent male models down the runway alongside the show’s supermodel lineup – Naomi! Kate! Cara! Bella! Just as he did usher in a new era, Jones was moving the Roman maison along with the times.
“The reality of what women around me are wearing. I have friends that just buy couture clothes, and they don’t buy big ball gowns. They buy real clothes, things that fit their bodies,” said Jones in an interview with Vogue.com. Couture has always been a dream but Jones proves that it need not always be a farfetched ideal.
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