The New Ferragamo Begins Under Paul Andrew – And It Is Looking So Good
For his debut, the new creative director dug back to his British roots, presenting minimalism, subtle masculinity and PLENTY of colour.| February 26, 2018
There were many firsts that happened for Salvatore Ferragamo this season. It marked Paul Andrew’s first show for the house as their women’s creative director. It marked his first time designing clothes. It is also the first Ferragamo runway to feature both menswear and womenswear alongside each other. The question of whether or not the former shoe designer and now multi-hyphenate could execute ready-to-wear well was finally answered: yes, it seems, with a clean aesthetic that would feed the hearts of fashion’s growing legions of minimalists.
Loose tailoring and monochromatic outfits in a rainbow of colours – an homage to Ferragamo’s rainbow wedge, maybe? – filed out one after another in the vividly painted runway set. The silhouettes were kept relaxed and long, with sleeves going past the knuckles and ankle length coats. The British-born designer expressed that he was obsessed with Netflix’s popular series The Crown, particularly with the portrayal of Princess Margaret by rising actress Vanessa Kirby, which would explain the horseriding-esque pants or –fashion word of the day – jodhpurs. He also managed to find a balance between masculinity and femininity in his pieces, like the button down dress that resembled a men’s tailored vest on the top but has the drape and flow of a dress for the bottom. The outfits also had impeccable layering, which entailed the use of analogous colours that helped to tie everything together.
Much like the clothes, the pull-on knee-high boots, in ostrich or smooth leather, had a loose silhouette. It was then we noticed – what seems to be – a pair made from shearling, in the most peculiar green. Not bad for a first fancy step forward. Handbags came in various shades, often in the same colour as the outfit. Each one was accompanied with a glove in the same hue, but strangely, only one hand.
Ferragamo’s Doppio Gancini fastening appeared across the collection, whether as an oversized belt buckle, the clever cutout on the top of a boot or attached to a little flap on the heel – perhaps functional, to make the zipless boots easier to slip into. The incorporation of it was subtle but elegant. Tasteful, polished, modern yet classy and definitely head-turning in styling choices, Andrew proves to have the knowledge and mindset to create pieces for the women of today, to bring forward a new and revamped Ferragamo. We cannot wait to see what has in store next and for the seasons to come.
What To Read Next: Fendi Gives A New Way Of Looking At The Romantic, Powerful Woman, At Prada, A Picture of Acid Tones, Nylon, Tulle And Female Freedom and Ask A Londoner: The Very Best Collections At London Fashion Week | Cover Image: Natalyn Chan, Runway Images via Vogue.com