With Bright Lights and Travellators, Gucci Springs A Surprise at Milan Fashion Week
Minimalism? Maximalism? Gucci's got a guy that can do both in Alessandro Michele. Five years on, the creative director proves that he still has plenty up his sleeve.| October 4, 2019
Gucci’s collections since the rise and reign of Alessandro Michele have always been the sort that demand a second look, and then some more. With Gucci’s show set of the season featuring models walking on travellators (read: models walking even faster than usual), the collection presented at Milan Fashion Week was worth even more of that second, third and possibly even fourth look. Take a deep breath, because there is plenty to tuck into here.
Michele always serves the unexpected, even if his Gucci “look” has been well established. The show began with models seemingly in a trance, dressed in all-white ensembles that looked like they could be uniforms from a draconian, dystopian society. You see, these looks – which will not be sold – were a metaphor for Michele’s intention for the season. The desire to break free and to explore the new, and, for his legions of fans, the return of self-expression to the individual.
Oh, did he bring out the new, indeed. In a move that may shut the naysayers up for good, Michele presented a stunning collection that – wait for it, now – walked on the minimal side. Surprise, surprise. There were hyper-sexy dresses that looked like negligees, each showing plenty of décolletage and leg and devoid of adornment. There were tangerine utilitarian suits that skipped the favoured print. There were simple knit and slit skirt combos that boasted colour and texture, but nothing else. The same can be said of the pristinely tailored ’70s and ’80s inspired suits that both men and women would want. With this collection, it is certain that Michele clearly has a plethora up his sleeves, but he’ll reveal them under his own terms. How exciting.
Still, it wouldn’t be a Gucci show without sequins, tassels and prints. These were all there, though served sparingly for the most part: a printed double-breasted blazer suit, a sequinned turtleneck with tassels at the collar, green embroidery on a pared-down little black dress. The show only had one full-on embellished look, and even that boasted clean lines. Michele didn’t skimp on the palette though, as colours went from ethereal to electric in a blink of an eye.
On the accessories front, functionality took front and centre. There were backpacks, saddle and top-handle totes that were all just the right size, open-back flats and kitten-heeled boots and, of course, oversized retro-futuristic sunglasses that will block more than just the sun, because who doesn’t have those days?
With yet another surreal escapade into Gucci’s world, Michele continues to present a ceaseless array of options for ardent Gucci fans to choose from and make their own, now more so than ever, and at the same time, brings forth more than enough to turn Gucci sceptics into believers.
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