In Paris, Natacha Ramsey-Levi Puts A Fresh Spin On Chloé’s Enduring Bohemian
Amid the billowy, asymmetric dresses, kickass second-skin boots and logomania top-handle bags, the creative director also gave a subtle tribute to the late Karl Lagerfeld and his time at Chloé.| March 12, 2019
The late great Karl Lagerfeld is remembered largely for his time at Chanel and Fendi, but at Chloé’s show in Paris, creative director Natacha Ramsay-Levi brought his time at the French house, and the height of his career there in the 1970s, to attention. Not just through the postcards placed on every seat, each depicting some of Lagerfeld’s most notable collections at the house, but perhaps also through the chosen decade of reference for her latest collection.
The seventies are looked to as inspiration more often than not, but few, if at all, can do it quite like how it is done at Chloé, and less so like how it is done by Ramsay-Levi. She has got a knack for injecting modernity into the tried-and-tested decade, one that results in something fresh, unmistakably young and highly feminine – even when menswear comes into play – the very triple-combo that has contributed to her growing fan base comprising both street style queens and everyday women alike.
The Chloé bohemian is a little down-to-business this season. Tailoring is strong, from oversized coats to a military-style dress. (The latter, which featured quilted collar and a skirt that had come “undone” at the hips, is especially stellar.) Even the denim looks seem deliberately boxy. Ramsay-Levi has the ability to make women want things they had forgotten that they once loved. Case in point: a pair of too-long, almost skinny trousers that flare open at the feet and another straight-leg and utilitarian. The knits are on another level, too, made with thick, veiny ribbing that accentuates the figure. A minimal yet statement knit, if we ever saw one.
Like the collections that came before, the highlights of Ramsay-Levi’s newest instalment are the dresses in all their free-flowing, billowy splendour. Some were short with negligee-like layers peeking out at the hem or from the cuffs, some with voluminous sleeves, and some with knots at the hip. Asymmetry is fast becoming a signature of Ramsay-Levi’s, something which she employs to great effect from necklines to hems, and it plays a big role in maintaining that wild-yet-polished free spirit that is so distinctively Chloé. The textures, prints and colours were extra fun, too.
On the accessories front, chunkiness is the name of the game with tribal-like necklaces, earrings that brush the collarbone and matching arm cuff bracelets. Logomania reigns high, with the house’s logo appearing in gold hardware on mini top-handle bags and golden locks on flap bags. The logomania accent that we liked best, though? On the zippers of the second-skin boots that we guarantee will be all over the next Paris Fashion Week scene.
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