Loewe’s Fall Starter Pack Includes Bulky Coats, Bare Midriffs and Belts
Giant pockets, hems extending past normal lengths and the same extra-long belts on the handbags. Could this be our favourite Loewe collection yet?| March 5, 2018
Ever the chaser of modern art, the phenom that is Jonathan Anderson brought the season’s Loewe girl to life at his usual UNESCO Heritage Site in Paris. This time, the space morphed into something of an exhibition with models weaving through structures by Japanese artist Tetsumi Kudo and fireplaces by E.W. Godwin. Anderson has always been one to expand his collection’s narrative with music and this season, it reminded show-goers that they all “ought to be having the time of [their] lives”. Perhaps the subliminal message was, in this trying times, happiness.
Organic meets industrial is perhaps the most concise way to describe the textures and materials. Raw and colourful yarns spun into structural forms on the midriff of a dress or hung from hems as fringe. It could suggest that the Loewe woman likes to craft her own designs, and reiterates the theme of art and creativity through the set-up. Leather belts extended past normal lengths, repeatedly cascading down bags, hemlines and seams in all manner of colour. The movement of the pieces gave femininity, further enhanced with the mesmerising flow of pleated fabrics and well-draped skirts.
Oversized pockets took centrestage on a few coats, often standing out with contrasting pops of colour or shearling trims. The gigantic-ness doesn’t end there, with collards that drooped down, as though like dripping oil, and huge hoop earrings that had patterned fabrics woven into the empty space, slightly resembling tribeswomen. Anderson didn’t miss the opportunity here to leave an uncut strand of yarn flowing down the side of the earrings, making sure that every detail in the show was consistent with each other.
It is always exciting when Loewe throws out a new bag or even a different iteration of a current offering, because Anderson and crew understand how to make polished, extraordinary and well-made bags that come with more than just a hint of practicality. There’s the new saddle-shaped Gate Bag with a knotted belt, backpacks with the same fringe treatment in the dresses and a pared-down Amazona with, you guess it, an extend belt detail.
Anderson has never had a problem balancing femininity with masculinity, and he manages to do it in a way that is exceedingly fresh by playing with proportions, texture and the mixing of materials. I mean, this guy can drape an “unhooked” bra on a pleated leather dress and make every woman in the room want the dress. Phenom is the only word.
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