At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson Continues To March To The Beat of His Own Drum
In a time where fashion seems to filled with so much uncertainty, the Scottish wunderkind remains ever consistent – by keeping things unwaveringly fresh.| October 10, 2018
Being at a Loewe show always makes one feel as though you’re at a gallery, an art show. With that in mind, the mood is immediately elevated, a little more upper-crust as you consider yourself part of a well-heeled bunch.
And, thoughtful the collection was, indeed. Definitely clever. Jonathan Anderson, forever brimming with youth and talent, has a knack for reinterpreting concepts that we’re all so used to in a complete different way. For Loewe’s latest collection that showed at the UNESCO heritage building in Paris, the word that comes to mind is “bohemian”. Yet, calling it so would be a discredit to Anderson, what with all the clichés associated with the term, because nothing about the pieces were that at all.
The line-up was incredibly varied. There were the now-signature lithe and lanky fit-and-flare dresses in a variety of mixed textures, suits that felt a little Saturday Night Life – in good way – and a bevy of breezy kaftans. The bulbous sleeves and skirts were a surprise, showing that Loewe can easily nail fluidity, structure and tailoring all at once. There were also oversized knits that looked so comfortable and easy despite the bulk, and on the other end of the spectrum, full leather dresses that looked like rain ponchos. There were so many crowd-pleasers: a rugby shirt dress in orange and green complete with an embroidered Loewe logo, triple-tone trousers and another pair with two waistbands and pockets that hung from the sides like fanny packs. So, so good. As this is Paris, there were elements of unapologetic opulence in the mix by way of oversized feather earrings, totes covered in feathers and silk-satin pyjama pants that ended in a plumage of – you guessed it – feathers.
Anderson is Loewe’s secret sauce. Under his hand springs a collection that feels free-spirited yet polished, at times deliberately unfinished yet refined, artsy but not detached, sculpted yet soft, varied yet cohesive. Nothing ever feels haphazard, yet the women wearing the pieces look at ease, and because of that, confident. Barely invested in trends and in moving quick, Anderson has always marched to the beat of his own drum and it certainly shows and pays off, season after season.
At the end of the show, with an installation of spinning car wash brushes doing their thing in the background, the crowd applauded and cheered. The latter doesn’t happen at every show, but for Anderson? Well deserved.
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