Nicolas Ghesquiere May Have Presented His Best Cruise Collection For Louis Vuitton Yet
She's eclectic, she's eccentric, she's electric. It's vintage-meets-futurism in a way you've never seen before. See the moments we captured straight from the runway.| May 29, 2018
Louis Vuitton’s cruise collections have always been distinctively “cruise”. This idea of “cruise” isn’t so much about the clothes as it is about the sensibility: easy, free, unchained and always going somewhere unexpected. The destination this season was the Fondation Maeght in St. Paul-de-Vence in Cannes, the perfect backdrop for Nicolas Ghesquiere’s fifth cruise collection for Louis Vuitton, one that had the eccentricities of the past and the unbridled, enviable sleekness of the future.
Indeed, the season’s Louis Vuitton girl is an eccentric. An eclectic. While there was a clear key silhouette from the start – fluttery, volume-heavy tops, so unmistakably Ghesquiere, that looked and moved light, with mini bottoms nipped so flatteringly at the waist – there was so much more to the collection that such a description feels hardly sufficient. Where do we begin?
Perhaps the best way to put it would be this: an eccentric with a magpie attitude, one that leads her to mix bits and bobs from a vintage store in the future. It doesn’t make sense in theory, but just go with it. Of course, “vintage” in Ghesquiere’s deft hands is markedly different from what we’re accustomed to. There was a bit of the ’80s in the checked sequin dresses, acid washes, psychedelic prints, matte gold boots, dotty floral prints and oversized dad blazers, a little ’70s in the cowboy hats and the fully feathery fringed blouses and shorts, a little ’60s in the tiny hats and lace going-out pajamas, and then way, way back to the Elizabethan era with white dresses of fluted high necks and sleeves (paired with simple white belts marked with a single logo and a giant backpack, no less). Everything, however, goes through Louis Vuitton’s – and Ghesquiere’s – back-to-the-future machine, seriously oversized laboratory-like glasses included. The clothes are modern, so chic and so forward.
The construction behind the collection is truly something to behold. The hybrid jacket-blazers, the mixed-print dresses that were full and ruffled on one side, simpler on the other, the panelled obi jackets with collared dresses tucked neatly underneath, the draped satin silk mini dresses, every single one of the curved, shoulder-heavy outerwear – no need for a closer look to tell that these are painstakingly thought-out pieces, though so effortlessly carried down the runway.
As the show music began to swell, starting first as a single voice and then reaching its crescendo as multiple voices boomed across the open space, so did the emotions. Cue the goosebumps. A relative stone’s throw away from the French Riviera, Ghesquiere may have just shown his best cruise collection yet.
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