At Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière’s Time Machine Comes to a Halt
Although typically a man ahead of the time, Ghesquière hits the breaks at Louis Vuitton to look back at the past rather than skip years into the future.| July 17, 2020
Nicolas Ghesquière has a penchant for unveiling his Resort presentations against architectural marvels across the globe. But with the world turned on its head and travel completely off the table, Ghesquière had to keep Louis Vuitton’s Resort 2021 presentation on homeground. “A cruise collection inspired by a stationary journey. A contradiction but not a burden,” read the show notes.
For a designer known to traverse years ahead into the future with his collections, producing a collection in the midst of a global pandemic that had brought time to a standstill meant winding his time machine backwards. “I looked somewhere that has been calling out to me for a long time, somewhere I hadn’t taken the time to go back to,” revealed Ghesquière in a statement to Vogue.
Rather than projecting forward into time, Louis Vuitton’s Resort 2021 collection sees Ghesquière winding the time machine backwards. Retrospective in nature, the collection jolted our memory to design tropes from Ghesquière’s past at the maison cherry-picked by the man himself. Spotted in the mix were: the frilly collar we last saw at the Fall 2019 presentation, the cocoon shaped blouses that have been a recurring silhouette across the seasons and, of course, not forgetting, the Archlight sneaker.
Speaking of revisiting signatures, if you paid close attention, you’d notice elements of the maison’s distinguishable monogram and symbols from playing cards – ace, spade, clubs, diamonds and hearts – rendered as graphic patterns on the collection’s dresses. Despite Ghesquière’s retracing of a well-trodden path, Louis Vuitton’s Resort 2021 outing was far from the sterile. If anything, the collection has brought Ghesquière whose mind was previously atuned to galaxy somewhere far, far away, back down to earth.
“It was like a reset to uncover one inspiration after another, to imagine the next steps and how to create and work within this new context. I took the time to explore my creative identity and prepare the future,” explained Ghesquière. Where will he be off to next? Only time will tell.
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