Let’s Talk About Dior’s New Look Under Maria Grazia Chiuri
Does the collection truly mark the dawn of a new era at the storied Parisian house?| October 19, 2016
Almost a season ago, we discussed how backstage photographers and models have it good when it comes to debut collections under new creative directors. They get first dibs on the excitement as the world waits at the edge of their seats from front row to the last. While we didn’t get a sneak preview of Dior’s Spring/Summer 2017 show, we can stand testament to the level of literal buzz in the room at Musee Rodin that day – and it wasn’t entirely because of V.I.P guest Rihanna.
It was the unveiling of Dior’s first collection under Maria Grazia Chiuri, after all. The very first under a female creative director. For a house so associated with femininity, the appointment seemed…finally right. Was this the reason behind the “We Should All Be Feminists” t-shirts? We can’t say for sure. The t-shirts do mean one thing though – wide-eyed youth has returned to Dior.
Printed t-shirts weren’t the only fresh additions. There were denim jeans – a first for womenswear – and graphic box clutches that bordered on the playful (though there was nothing playful about the weight of those things – they were HEAVY). Fencing references and the colour white were the theme of the first half, but it was the see-through dresses in the second that stole the show. Some were all red, others were covered with astrological embroidery, flowers, polka dots, ruffles, bats, crabs and crying hearts. Is Dior – dare we say it – quirky, now? Maybe, and it’s not a bad thing at all. The Dior girl is now younger than ever. And the shoes. Good lord, just hand us a pair of those “J’ADIOR” slingbacks already.
Perhaps the most important takeaway from the entire collection was the story behind the little embroidered bees. While Raf Simons made it a point to pay homage to Christian Dior and his signatures during his three-year stint, Chiuri recognises the house’s history in a different way. The bees, you see, are a tribute to Hedi Slimane, former creative director of Dior Homme. Monsieur Dior’s “New Look” silhouette is there, but only just a little – and you’ll have to look hard to see it.
It is time to tell the rest of Dior’s story after Monsieur Dior – and Chiuri is there to see to it. This is Dior’s new look, sans big structured skirts and tightly cinched waists.