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For Spring, Marni Serves Up A Fresh New Perspective Amid A Sea of Beds

Intrigued? For starters, the show notes has a line that says "serve hot, like an unexpected slap". Oh yeah, stay tuned – you know it's going to be good.

Marni’s show track had notes of that universally hated sound of alarms. That odious sound that says, “I know you don’t want to, and I know that you hate this sound from the depths of your very soul, but wake the hell up.” Appropriately so, too, since regular show seats were swapped with cushy beds complete with curly bed frames and pillows. The collection that Francisco Risso presented was named “Mattress Recipe”. But why? Cue the dissection.

The opening looks were startling. So beautiful, but startling. They were crisp and irregularly yet sumptuously draped and shaped. (The show notes did say “serve hot, like an unexpected slap”, so we’re not completely off the track here.) In a range of traditionally neutral colours and paired with chunky, heavy-duty gold chokers, these were almost the polar opposites of the bright, pattern-heavy Marni that Conseulo Castiglioni created and Risso subsequently continued in a reasonable degree. Unfinished at the hems, they looked almost haphazard, as if sheets were taken off the bed and tied together on one’s body. Ah, we see what you did there, Risso.

The narrative at hand, however, is more of that of a painter. The dresses at the start were reminiscent of canvases. The sculpted nude bustier number like a clay sculpture in progress. Then, quite quickly, as if under the hand of a crazed painter, a sudden shift to bold, bold colour and collage prints of face and bodies both real and artificial. You won’t be forgetting these pieces any time soon.

There were plenty of everyday pieces on the palette, too. Structured coats that cocooned, biker vests and the most kitten of kitten heels that were basically flats. The accessories were absolute delights: triangular sunglasses, single earrings and document bags with semi-circle gold handles.

Oftentimes a switch of creative heads after decades of being helmed by a certain designer is accompanied by an air of anxiety. The one around Risso dissipated the instant his first look ever for Marni came down the runway several seasons back. For whatever comes next, we’ve got our eyes peeled.

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