Nicholas Ghesquière Revisits The Jet Age With Superheroes, Pinstripes And The 80s
Louis Vuitton landed in a defunct airport, fusing not only the past and future together, but also elements from the fictional world. Back to the future? Only if it's with Ghesquière.| May 15, 2019
The time, 8th May 2019. The place, the newly refurbished Trans World Airlines Flight Center. The occasion, Louis Vuitton Cruise 2020. There’s really nothing more enthralling than entering one of New York’s architectural icons – and even more so for a fashion show. It was once a bustling airport during the golden age of flying that has been closed since 2001, one that has been featured in iconic films like Catch Me If You Can.
But the marvel of it all doesn’t stop there. The airport was layered with foliage, covering bridges and railings, even to the washrooms. Nicholas Ghesquière transported guests back in time, projecting his memory of landing in the TWA Center back in the late nineties onto the collection, blending his futuristic visions with the stereotypical fashion styles of New York in the wild 1980s.
Think of Ghesquière’s knack and love for incorporating geometry into his designs, and how he lets the city’s art deco influence come together in harmony, creating unique patterns on printed fabrics, appliqués and silhouettes. He included nods to the Renaissance period with panels of shimmering lace, contrasted against the saturated colours of satin blue, green, yellow. This amalgamation of wildly different eras in fashion is officially a Ghesquière signature.
Models crossed each other on the runway, moving in wall street-like pinstripe suits, sharp and tailored, including skirts and strong shoulders that meant serious business. Then, there were wing-like tops and jackets, and tight caps that resembled those of superheroes, channeling inspiration from more than just realistic NYC.
Just when you thought it couldn’t get anymore fascinating, bags weren’t just made out of textiles. For this show, they had OLED screens attached to them. Ghesquière put the brilliance of futuristic cities and its saturated colours on duffel bags and bucket bags – plus made it touch screen. Other bags seen were also skyscraper tip-inspired clutches and renditions of their trunk clutch, the Petite Malles.
The whole collection felt like a blast into the past and then straight into the future. Ghesquière’s incorporation of futuristic elements will never cease to give a new life to the simplest of inspirations. Architecture has always stuck well with Ghesquière, and it’s no different for his sixth cruise show – and counting.
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