At Prada, A Picture of Acid Tones, Nylon, Tulle And Female Freedom
We also noticed a certain never-before-seen bag amid Prada's usual suspects. Is a new signature accessory on the horizon?| February 26, 2018
Miuccia Prada is a woman of intellect. Prada is her voice, now perhaps more than ever, what with the overflowing of troubling stimuli plaguing the world. Mrs. Prada has always been one to place women at the forefront. She championed female artists and cartoonists in the last two seasons. Female directors before that. This season, which she chose to show at Fondazione Prada instead of the usual Prada headquarters, she focused on returning freedom to women, a kind of freedom that lets them roam the streets without being afraid. It is a conversation that matters.
To set the scene, an all-black, glossy show space, illuminated by the glow of neon signs perched atop surrounding buildings. The black was metaphorical for sure, like the dark of night, but also an aesthetic choice as the season’s palette was full-on neon, a startling mix of pink, orange, cyan, green and yellow. Neon isn’t easy to do, but if there’s anyone we trust to handle it masterfully, it’s Mrs. Prada.
Silhouettes played on polar opposites, particularly between masculinity and femininity. After all, a woman can be assertive while channelling either, or both. On one hand, bulky coats and jackets of tweed, checks and leather (lined with neon shearling, no less), and on the other, digital print skirts, neck bows, opera gloves, go-go plastic fringe, floral embroidery and plenty, plenty of tulle. These two sides came together often, whether it was a tulle dress under a bulky leather overcoat or a shell-like poncho.
The collection also felt like a tribute to Prada itself. Prada-ception, if you will. There was a heavy use of nylon, stamped with the brand’s signature inverted triangle logos, as though the pieces were spun out of their ever-popular nylon bags. The famous – or should I say, notorious? – flaming shoes of Spring 2012 make a comeback of sorts in blinding neon, guaranteed to be purchased in a heartbeat among all who missed out on its predecessor. Bags were decorated with the lesser-seen red and black Prada Sport logo, a more subtle nod to the industry’s ever-blooming obsession with all things logomania.
While the self-referencing was evident, it seemed as though Prada was trying to make new signatures. Case in point: a top-handle croc bag with a seasoned metal twist-lock and subtly engraved with Prada logo. Is a new Prada bag on the horizon? One can certainly hope.
What To Read Next: See All The Coolest Details From Prada’s Spring/Summer ’18, What We Learned From Revisiting Pre-Millenial Prada and The Many Fashion Seasons And Fashion Weeks, Explained | Cover Image: Courtesy of Prada, Runway Images via Vogue.com