The Milan Fashion Week Digest – Episode 6
From the sensual, one-shouldered 1980s silhouettes at Max Mara to Paul Andrew's beautiful top-handles and architectural heels at Ferragamo, THESE are the collections you need to know about.| October 6, 2018
Milan, how you flirt and how you surprise. As the weather outdoors began to heat up, the runway on which the spring collections were unveiled was most positively on fire. In an unexpected but not unwelcome twist of events, bold, bright colour made way for the “conventionally” fall colours of nudes, browns and beige. (Quite the opposite of what is happening in the street style scene.) Sportswear elements reigned, but with so much more polish then seasons past. Milan gave so much, but the deed had to be done. Here, we present the five collections that won us over well and good.
Francisco Risso continues to prove that he is exactly the person to both fill Consuelo Castiglioni’s well-heeled shoes and steer Marni towards a new era. Taking a small step away from bright, geometric prints that have become a signature at Marni, Risso instead looked towards nudes and whites, with the painter and the painter’s canvas as starting points. Beautiful, crisp and surprising in the best way possible. See our full review and favourite moments here.
We say this every single season, but it is amazing how Fendi constantly moves forward without letting go of its long heritage. How? By opening themselves to possibilities. By taking risks. By never compromising on polish, whatever form the collection it takes for the season. Fendi’s palette of the season was a range of warm browns, orange, burgundy and white. Utilitarianism and sportswear took centrestage, but these were looks that you can easily wear to dinner, all year long. See our full review and favourite moments here.
Is spring set to be ruled by browns and nudes in various forms? It sure seems like it, and if so, there is no label we trust the palette with more than Max Mara. After all, the camel coat is their signature. Such a palette is their thing. For spring, Max Mara presented a mix of the 1980s, the safari and the boardroom. That’s quite a range, but the result is tantalising. One-shoulder top-halfs were a recurring element, paired with ruched and ruffled pencil skirts, under power suits or oversized trench coats. The deconstructed yet polished pant legs, worn under pedal-pushers, skirts and dresses, had all the good things about wearing a skirt over pants without the restricting discomfort. Having the models walk down the runway with hands on the hips, not unlike the fashion shows of yore, was the cherry on top of the proverbial ice cream. Check out our full review here.
What are you wearing to your next beach vacation? For us, Sportmax is definitely in the mix. Being Sportmax, the sportswear element is part of its personality, but the label constantly finds ways to keep things fresh. Surf’s up, cocktail by speedboat fresh. Lithe, second-skin sequinned dresses inspired by scuba suits, mini dresses inspired by rash guards, ruched bustier dresses decorated with speckled drawstrings not unlike those used by the docks, strapless dresses and cropped top and skirt combos in ombre orange, pink and grey, so many bucket hats. The surf reference is obvious, but these weren’t clothes just for the beachside. The pinstriped “boardroom” wrap skirts worn over itsy-bitsy bikini bottoms made sure of that. Come behind the scenes of the show with us here.
At this point, there is no denying that Ferragamo, the storied Italian house so known for its shoes, has found the perfect fit – pun so, so intended – in Paul Andrew. There is also no denying that Ferragamo is the perfect place for Andrew, known first as a shoe designer, to expand his repertoire as a designer. To truly appreciate Andrew’s Ferragamo, one needs to go far and then go close. Really close. There are colour combinations for both the bold and the everyday – a shiny pink suit and khaki dungarees with nothing underneath, YES – and a generous of texture, from “seasoned” leather to crotchet. But eurgh, the accessories. They were so good. A tiny top-handle the size of a wallet. A nano satchel. Wooden platforms and woven with beautiful architectural heels. Purple laser-cut boots that provide so much ventilation in hot weather. This is Andrew thinking about his Ferragamo clientele in all kinds of moods, any day of the week.
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