Why Valentino’s Latest Show Nearly Moved Us to Tears
Season after season, Pierpaolo Piccioli continues to set our hearts aflutter with dreamy collections that instantly bring romance to mind.| October 18, 2019
Of late, Maison Valentino shows by Pierpaolo Piccioli have invoked strong emotions in us and the Spring/Summer 2020 collection did the same. Perhaps more so than ever. We found ourselves mesmerised the moment the first model strode out, a vision in white.
The opening looks were a sight to behold: tops resembling a translucent bib, crisp tailored bermuda shorts, airy shirt dresses with exaggerated sleeves and tiered skirts. Paired with matching flat rope sandals and gold bejewelled accessories shaped like mythical creatures such as winged crocodiles, monkeys and panthers. But wait, that’s not all. With Frank Ocean crooning “Moon River” in the background, we were instantly swept away by the romance of it all.
Like a jolt out of the blue, the steady stream of white monochrome looks was then interrupted by fluorescents, jungle prints as well as a burst of patterns. This tinge of wildness was neatly incorporated in the closing looks— models floated down the runway in seemingly weightless tulle confections, complete with embroideries of leaves and flowers that you would find in the jungle. At the heart of the collection lies extravagance, even for the simpler-looking outfits.
At first glance, it would be easy to simply attribute Piccioli’s choice to use monochrome to aesthetics, for he employs grisaille, a technique of making art in shades of grey and white. After all, along with the simplicity of cotton poplin, this winning combination allows for the volumes, shapes and the finer details of couture – the feathers, ruffles and pleats – to come to fore.
However, show notes reveal that white is a non-colour that contains a spectrum of colours, which alludes to the notion of inclusivity and Piccioli’s desire to make couture accessible to the masses. It seems like more and more couture pieces are slowly but surely making their way down to the ready-to-wear collections and we’ve got our eyes peeled for whatever comes next. See above for the looks that we can’t seem to get out of our head.
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| Cover Image and Text: Sherryl Cheong, Runway Images: Vogue.com